Dragana's collection was surprising--in a good way. Dragana Ognjenovic of Belgrade brought her work to New York for the second time this fashion week. It was unlike any of the other collections in New York, and thus a break in the monotony of seeing the same trends and colors at every show. Plus, I went with no expectations and was thus very receptive to what I consider the best looks in her collection.
Her work seems a bit rough around the edges, both figuratively and literally. There was a theme of deconstruction à la Margiela throughout; frayed edges and loose threads added interest to several looks (most of which are pictured not above but "after the jump" as they say). However, viewing her collection, one gets the sense that her work isn't as well developed as it could be. While she produced some standout looks, these were interspersed with far too much uninteresting filler. I would also question her choice of fabric for the black jackets and variations thereof (again, pictures of these after the jump).
The highlights of the show were a pale pink tiered dress, an ultra-short champagne shirt dress, a couple of coats with high-low hems (well, I'm not exactly sure what you'd call them exactly, but they moved beautifully), and a black tube dress with a pleated piece on the front.
The pink tiered dress illustrates the character of Dragana's designs particularly well. Though many designers have shown pink tiered dresses in recent seasons, I assure you this one stands out. The dress is not pretty-with-a-cherry-on-top, but it is still delicate and feminine. It has just a touch of edge. The pink is a little paler than what we'd expect; the fabric a little stiffer. If you look closely you'd notice that the edges are in fact scalloped. In general, Dragana's best pieces suggest much time spent experimenting--with pleating, draping, lengths (of sleeves, hems, you name it), and deconstruction--and are consistent with an aesthetic of (what I would call) "prettiness with just enough edge to make you look twice."
Photos: Firstview. Click to see larger.