As a result of the remarkable growth in the market for pre-collections in the past few years, the Spring resort collections have become somewhat of a "crystal ball" for fashion devotees trying to predict the major trends for spring. (Well, at least the fashion devotees who don't have access to trend forecasts.)
Basically, resort collections have become increasingly important for retailers, making up larger and larger proportions of store buyers' orders for the Spring season. As Calvin Klein designer Franciso Costa told the New York Times, pre-collections (such as resort) now "serve as a 'testing ground' for the runway." Designers use resort collections to run their ideas by buyers, and then develop and "embellish" the ones that are well received for their Spring collections.
I will arrive in New York tomorrow for Fashion Week, and the following are a few trends from the resort collections which may appear on the runways for Spring 2007.
Metallics at John Galliano, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein, Nina Ricci
Ajoure at Derek Lam, Calvin Klein
Stripes at Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, Louis Vuitton, Yigal Azrouel
Volume at Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney
Drop waists at Stella McCartney, Rochas, Doo.Ri, Vera Wang
The red dress at Narciso Rodriguez, Versace
Dots at Balenciaga, Versace, Oscar de la Renta, Stella
Lace at Michael Kors, Oscar, Colette Dinnigan, Carolina Herrera
Watercolor prints at Giambattista Valli, Versace, Rochas
Sleeveless Batwing styles at Derek Lam, Calvin Klein
Ankle pants at Jil Sander, Derek Lam, Marc Jacobs
Bright purple at Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta
Vichy checks at YSL, Oscar de la Renta, Chloe
Other trends in resort included nautical details, ruffles on the straps of tops and dresses, long skirts and dresses on looks meant for day, halter tops and dresses, pleats and pintucks, bow front dresses, continued emphasis on the waist with belts, pockets in dresses, layering (resort provided a glimpse into what layering may look like for Spring 2007--I can't wait to see how it plays out in the Spring 2007 collections), sequins, and of course more of the new minimalism. In terms of color, there were less multicolor prints; patterns tended to feature one color on white (e.g. red on white or purple on white or black on white), or two similar tones (e.g. pale pink and grey as at Derek Lam). Khaki also made an appearance in a number of collections (most notably Ralph Lauren, YSL, Lanvin, Dior, and Prada). Another color that featured in several resort collections was yellow (as in sunflowers in Provence yellow). Finally, I really loved the subdued color palette of pale pink, grey, and white at Derek Lam and Calvin Klein and hope to see lots more of that for this Spring.
Well now I'm off to pick up a dress from the tailor and after that I'll post about last minute shopping for fashion week.
Note: I realize that I haven't provided more than a couple of images for some of the trends I mention. However, this does not mean that these trends don't run across several resort collections--it simply means I've posted a couple of representative looks.
Photos from Style.com and Firstview.